, in one afternoon. It’s full of Italian recipes that are as easy to pull together as they are to share along with some wine. The casual but delicious look of the Poached Vegetables with Savory Zabaione has me thinking it would be a great way to start a meal with friends. And, the pasta dishes like Mezzi Rigatoni with Tomatoes, Lots of Herbs, Hot Oil, and Mozzarella make the most of a few ingredients with big flavors. I’d be happy with an entire meal of some of the vegetable dishes like Peppers Roasted with Anchovies and Butter, Eggplant with Smoky Tomato and Harissa Sauce, and White Beans with Spicy Black Olive Vinaigrette. There are also pizzas for the grill or the oven and desserts that I keep flipping back to including Fig Gelato, Almond Cookies, and Zaletti which are made with currants, rum, and cornmeal. There are chicken and meat dishes as well, but I made a stop in the Pesci chapter first. Acqua Pazza has always sounded like a fun dish to make, it’s fun to say too, but I’d never tried it. The name refers to the “crazy water” broth in which fish is poached. There are fresh, plum tomatoes in the broth, and I found some cute, locally-grown ones at the farmers’ market last weekend. Those plum tomatoes were quartered lengthwise and seeded. The seeds were placed in a sieve set over a bowl, and the juice that strained from them was added to the tomato segments. The other components that make the water so crazy are sliced garlic, red pepper flakes, wine, fresh oregano, and fresh parsley. Water is also added to the broth before being left to simmer and reduce for a bit. I chose some thick cod fillets, but any firm, white-fleshed fish would work here. I cut the fish into portions and seasoned each before placing the pieces in the broth. The fish cooks quickly, and I spooned some broth over the fillets to help cook the tops which weren’t submerged. When opaque, the fish was removed to a platter, the broth was spooned over top, olive oil was drizzled on the fish, and chopped parsley was added for garnish.
Acqua Pazza
Recipe reprinted with permission from Canal House Cooking Volume No. 8: Pronto
by Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton/Andrews McMeel Publishing, LLC. Serves 4
This classic Neapolitan fish preparation is both delicate and full of flavor. The term acqua pazza (“crazy water” in Italian) refers to both the dish and the poaching broth, which is stained red from tomatoes and aromatic with garlic and herbs. It’s one of those satisfying dishes, like San Francisco’s cioppino, created by fishermen who would make it on board with their catch of the day and a few other simple ingredients. We like to use black sea bass or red snapper, but any non-oily white fish will do nicely.
1 pound ripe plum tomatoes
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 sprigs fresh oregano
1 bunch fresh parsley
Salt and pepper
4 black sea bass or red snapper filets (about 4 ounces each)
Quarter the tomatoes lengthwise. Working over a sieve set over a bowl, scoop out the tomato seeds with your fingers. Put the tomatoes in the bowl with any of the strained juice and discard the seeds in the sieve.
Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-low heat. Add the sliced garlic and red pepper flakes, and cook until the oil is fragrant and well-flavored yet the garlic remains pale blonde, 3–4 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juice, the wine, oregano, half of the parsley, and 4 cups cool water. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and simmer the broth until it is slightly reduced, 15–20 minutes.
Chop the remaining parsley leaves (discarding the stems). Add the parsley, a generous pinch of salt, and some pepper to the broth. Season the fish filets with salt, then place them skin side up in the simmering broth (the fish will not be submerged). Cook until the fish is opaque, about 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Remove and discard the sprigs of oregano and parsley.
Use a fish spatula to arrange the fish flesh side up on a deep serving platter or on 4 deep plates. Taste the broth and adjust the seasonings. Spoon the tomatoes and broth over the fish and drizzle with some olive oil.
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. For authentic Paella Valenciana, you must use the proper rice and cook it in a wide, flat paella pan outdoors over a fire of burning vine branches or orange tree shoots. It contains chicken, rabbit, possibly duck, and occasionally vaquetes, which are land snails, but never seafood or chorizo. Traditionally, the only allowable additional garnishes were flat green beans, artichokes, and butter beans. The focus of the dish is always the rice. There’s also a suggestion that paella is only for lunch and never for dinner, and any dish that includes those other ingredients like seafood should be called something other than paella. To be named Valenciana, it has to be exactly right. Clearly, I didn’t really know paella at all. The good news is that there are also recipes in the book for ‘paellas’ which make no attempt at being by-the-book, traditional Paella Valenciana. I decided to make one of those, chiringuito seafood paella, which Von Bremzen describes as ‘a minimalist affair, with few other ingredients besides seafood and rice.’ The one important garnish, which I almost completely forgot to serve, was the saffron allioli.
. You start with a bunch of peeled asparagus and set four spears aside and then cook the rest until tender. Those were left whole and chilled. The four reserved spears were chopped and added to a saucepan with a little water and olive oil. They were simmered until very tender and then pureed with dijon mustard, lemon juice, and salt. What results is a thick asparagus sauce which was served in cups for dunking the whole, chilled spears. 
